Khao Yai National Park, Thailand's oldest, is about 2.5 to 3 hours north-east of Bangkok and part of a UNESCO-listed forest complex. There is little accommodation inside the park, so most visitors sleep along the roads leading to it, from resort-lined Thanarat Road to the town of Pak Chong and the farm country around Muak Lek.
Thanarat Road (Route 2090) is the best base for most visitors: it leads straight to the park's north gate and is lined with resorts, cafes and restaurants for every budget. Backpackers and anyone arriving by train or bus should stay in Pak Chong town, where tours to the park start. For wildlife lovers, camping at Lam Takhong or Pha Kluai Mai inside the park is unbeatable. Muak Lek suits families on a road trip who want farms and cool-air cafes more than jungle.
Areas compared
The best areas to stay in Khao Yai
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Thanarat Road (Route 2090)
Resorts and cafes on the road to the park gate
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Thanarat Road runs roughly 20 to 25 km south from Pak Chong to the park's northern checkpoint, and most of Khao Yai's accommodation is strung along it and its side roads. You will find everything from simple bungalows to large resorts, villas with pools, vineyards, themed cafes and farm stays. The further south you go, the greener and quieter it gets, and the shorter the drive into the park at opening time. It is very popular with Bangkok residents, so weekends and long holidays are busy and more expensive than weekdays.
Best forCouplesFamiliesRoad trippers
Why stay here
Closest area to the park entrance with lots of choice
Wide range of restaurants and cafes
Pools, gardens and mountain views
Watch out for
Spread out and car-dependent
Crowded and pricier at weekends and on holidays
Getting around: A car or scooter is almost essential; songthaews run along the lower part of the road, but not into the park.
Pak Chong is the market town on the Friendship Highway at the northern end of Thanarat Road, with a railway station and bus stops for services from Bangkok and the north-east. It is the cheapest place to stay, with simple hotels and guesthouses, a lively night market and plenty of local restaurants. Most organised tours into the national park pick up here, which makes it a practical base if you do not drive. The town itself is ordinary and busy, and the park gate is still around 30 to 40 minutes away by road.
Best forBackpackersBudget travellersTravellers without a car
Why stay here
Cheapest rooms in the area
Train and bus connections
Tour operators and a good night market
Watch out for
Noisy, unremarkable town
Far from the park without a tour or vehicle
Getting around: Join a day tour into the park, or rent a scooter or car in town; songthaews go part of the way down Thanarat Road.
Dairy farms, waterfalls and cafes on the way from Bangkok
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Muak Lek, in Saraburi province, is the gateway to the Khao Yai area when driving from Bangkok, known for its dairy farms, Muak Lek waterfall and many roadside cafes and farm attractions. Accommodation ranges from homestays and camping-style glamping to resorts set among hills and fields. It is quieter and often cheaper than Thanarat Road and works well for families who want farm visits and cooler air on a short break. The downside is distance: the park entrance is roughly an hour's drive away.
Best forFamiliesRoad trippersWeekend breaks
Why stay here
Farms and activities for children
Quieter than Thanarat Road
Handy first stop from Bangkok
Watch out for
Around an hour from the park gate
Very little public transport
Getting around: You will need your own car; there is no convenient public transport to the attractions or the park.
Camping inside the park (Lam Takhong and Pha Kluai Mai)
Wake up to gibbons and hornbills
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The national park runs two main campgrounds, Lam Takhong, a few kilometres from the visitor centre, and the smaller, shadier Pha Kluai Mai further east. You can bring your own tent or rent one with bedding, and both have showers, toilets and simple food shops. There are also park bungalows, which should be booked in advance through the Department of National Parks; its online booking system has had long outages, so you may need to contact the park directly. Mornings bring gibbon calls and hornbills, and the chance of seeing deer or elephants on the park roads. Nights can be cold in the cool season, and holiday weekends are packed.
Best forWildlife loversAdventurous travellersBudget travellers
Why stay here
Unmatched wildlife atmosphere
Very cheap
Early access to trails and viewpoints
Watch out for
Basic facilities and cold showers
Very crowded on Thai holidays
Monkeys raid unattended food
Getting around: You need your own vehicle or a tour, as the park is large and there is no public transport inside it.
Thanarat Road (Route 2090)Close to the park gate, with the widest choice of rooms and restaurants.
Close to the park gate, with the widest choice of rooms and restaurants.
Budget travellers and backpackers
Pak Chong townCheap rooms, train and bus links, and tours that pick up in town.
Cheap rooms, train and bus links, and tours that pick up in town.
Wildlife lovers
Camping inside the park (Lam Takhong and Pha Kluai Mai)You are already in the forest at dawn, when animals are most active.
You are already in the forest at dawn, when animals are most active.
Families
Muak LekFarms, waterfalls and relaxed resorts, ideal for a short road trip from Bangkok.
Farms, waterfalls and relaxed resorts, ideal for a short road trip from Bangkok.
Budget
How much for a room in Khao Yai?
Indicative nightly ranges for a double room in high season; expect lower prices from May to October.
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Budget
under 800 THB / night (indicative)
A tent in a park campground, or a basic room or guesthouse in Pak Chong.
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Mid-range
1,200-3,500 THB / night (indicative)
A resort room or bungalow with pool along Thanarat Road or in Muak Lek.
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Upscale
4,500+ THB / night (indicative)
A luxury resort or private pool villa with mountain views, mainly off Thanarat Road.
Before you book
Booking tips from the ground
Stay on a weekday if you can: Khao Yai is a favourite weekend escape from Bangkok and prices and traffic jump on Fridays, Saturdays and public holidays.
Book park bungalows ahead for holiday periods through the Department of National Parks or by contacting the park directly; tents are rented on the spot and cannot usually be reserved, so arrive early at peak times.
Elephants regularly walk on the park roads; keep your distance, stay in the car and never drive at night inside the park faster than the limits.
Thanarat Road (Route 2090) is the best all-round base, with resorts for every budget and a short drive to the park's north gate. Pak Chong is better without a car, and camping inside the park is best for wildlife.
Can you stay inside Khao Yai National Park?
Yes. The park has campgrounds at Lam Takhong and Pha Kluai Mai, with tent rental, and a limited number of park bungalows that should be booked ahead through the Department of National Parks or directly with the park.
Do I need a car to visit Khao Yai?
It helps a lot, as the park and resorts are spread out. Without one, stay in Pak Chong and join a guided tour, or rent a scooter, keeping in mind the long, hilly roads inside the park.
How far is Khao Yai from Bangkok?
Around 2.5 to 3 hours by road from central Bangkok, depending on traffic. Trains and buses go to Pak Chong, from where you need a tour or vehicle to reach the park.
How many nights should I stay in Khao Yai?
Two nights is a good minimum: it gives you a full day inside the park plus an early morning for wildlife. Add a night if you also want to visit wineries, farms or Muak Lek.
By Kylian Dev