Where to stay in Mae Hong Son: town, valley or mountain village?
Mae Hong Son is a small, remote provincial town tucked into a valley near the Myanmar border, at the far end of the winding mountain roads of the Mae Hong Son Loop. Its Shan-style temples, misty mornings and nearby hill villages are the draw, and you can sleep by the lake in town, in a rural resort, or in a village among tea fields.
The town centre around Chong Kham lake is the best base for most visitors: everything is walkable, from the lakeside temples to the night market and restaurants. Couples and families with a car often prefer the quieter resorts on the outskirts. For a memorable night, add a stay in Ban Rak Thai, a Yunnanese tea village by a reservoir, or camp at Pang Ung for misty sunrises. Mae Sariang is a useful stop on the southern half of the loop.
Areas compared
The best areas to stay in Mae Hong Son
1
Town centre (Chong Kham lake)
Walk to temples, the night market and cafes
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The heart of Mae Hong Son is Chong Kham lake, framed by the white and gold Burmese-style temples of Wat Chong Kham and Wat Chong Klang, which are reflected in the water at dusk. Guesthouses, small hotels, cafes and tour agencies are all within a few minutes' walk, and a small night market sets up along the lake in the high season. It is the most practical place to stay if you arrive by bus or plane, and even in the centre the town is quiet, with most places closing early.
Best forFirst-timersTravellers without a carBudget travellers
Why stay here
Everything within walking distance
Beautiful lake and temple views
Easy to book tours and rent scooters
Watch out for
Limited upscale options
Very quiet in the evening outside the high season
Getting around: Walk around town; rent a scooter or hire a driver for the villages, caves and viewpoints outside.
A few kilometres outside the centre, resorts and homestays are spread along the valley roads, surrounded by rice fields, gardens and forested hills. Rooms are usually larger than in town, some with pools or wooden bungalows on stilts, and mornings often bring mist rolling off the mountains. It is the best choice for a relaxing stay or for families who want more space. You will, however, depend on a vehicle or the hotel's shuttle to reach restaurants and the lake, and some properties are down rough side roads.
Best forCouplesFamiliesRoad trippers
Why stay here
Peaceful setting with nature on your doorstep
More spacious rooms and bungalows
Better value for comfort than in town
Watch out for
Need a vehicle to go out to eat
Some access roads are rough or steep
Getting around: A scooter or car is best; many resorts offer transfers from the airport and bus station on request.
Ban Rak Thai, also known as Mae Aw, is a village of Chinese Yunnanese heritage close to the Myanmar border, roughly 45 km north of Mae Hong Son town along a steep, winding mountain road. Clay houses and guesthouses line a small reservoir surrounded by tea plantations, and restaurants serve Yunnanese dishes and local tea. Day-trippers leave in the afternoon, so staying overnight means quiet evenings and misty mornings on the water. Nights are cold in the cool season, and there is very little to do after dark.
Best forCouplesPhotographersSlow travellers
Why stay here
Magical setting, especially at dawn
Unique Yunnanese food and tea culture
Peaceful once the day-trippers leave
Watch out for
Long, winding drive from town
Cold nights and simple facilities
Getting around: Drive yourself, hire a driver or book a songthaew tour from town; there is no regular public transport.
Pang Ung, officially the Pang Tong royal project reservoir, is a lake surrounded by pine forest on the way to Ban Rak Thai, often nicknamed the Switzerland of Thailand. Its fame comes from cool-season sunrises, when mist lies on the water and bamboo rafts glide across it. Accommodation is mostly tent camping, with tents and bedding available to rent, plus a few simple lodges and homestays in nearby Ruam Thai village. It is very busy on Thai holidays from December to January, and nights can be close to freezing.
Best forAdventurous travellersNature loversPhotographers
Why stay here
Spectacular misty sunrises
Cheap tent camping
Cool mountain air
Watch out for
Basic facilities
Crowded on cool-season holidays
Very cold nights in winter
Getting around: You need your own vehicle or a tour; the road from town is steep and winding.
Mae Sariang is a small, easy-going town on the Yuam River, around 160 km south of Mae Hong Son and a natural overnight stop when doing the loop between Chiang Mai and Mae Hong Son via the southern route. It has a handful of riverside guesthouses and small hotels, Burmese-style temples and local restaurants, but few sights of its own. It is not a base for visiting Mae Hong Son itself, but it breaks up a long drive and gives a glimpse of quiet provincial life that few foreign visitors see.
Best forRoad trippersSlow travellers
Why stay here
Relaxing riverside setting
Good value rooms
Breaks up the long southern loop
Watch out for
Far from Mae Hong Son's sights
Few restaurants and activities
Getting around: Walkable town; you will need your own vehicle or buses to continue along the loop.
Town centre (Chong Kham lake)Walkable, practical and close to temples, food and tour agencies.
Walkable, practical and close to temples, food and tour agencies.
Budget travellers and backpackers
Town centre (Chong Kham lake)The cheapest guesthouses and easy scooter rental.
The cheapest guesthouses and easy scooter rental.
Couples
Ban Rak ThaiQuiet evenings and misty mornings by the reservoir after the day-trippers leave.
Quiet evenings and misty mornings by the reservoir after the day-trippers leave.
Families
Outskirts and valley resortsSpace, gardens and calm, with larger rooms and bungalows.
Space, gardens and calm, with larger rooms and bungalows.
Budget
How much for a room in Mae Hong Son?
Indicative nightly ranges for a double room in high season; expect lower prices from May to October.
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Budget
300-800 THB / night (indicative)
A simple guesthouse room in town, or a rented tent at Pang Ung.
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Mid-range
900-2,200 THB / night (indicative)
A comfortable hotel room in town or a bungalow in a valley resort or Ban Rak Thai.
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Upscale
2,500+ THB / night (indicative)
One of the few larger resorts on the outskirts, often with a pool and mountain views.
Before you book
Booking tips from the ground
The road from Chiang Mai via Pai has hundreds of bends; minivans take around 6 hours or more, so consider flying if you are prone to motion sickness, as flights from Chiang Mai take well under an hour when scheduled.
The cool season (around November to February) is the most popular time, with cold nights in the mountains; book Ban Rak Thai and Pang Ung ahead for Thai holidays.
From around February to April, smoke from agricultural burning can cause poor air quality and hazy views across the north; check air quality before you travel.
There are few ATMs outside the town centre; bring cash for Ban Rak Thai, Pang Ung and smaller villages.
The town centre around Chong Kham lake is the best base for most visitors, as it is walkable and practical. Resorts on the outskirts suit couples and families with a car, and Ban Rak Thai is ideal for a special night in the mountains.
Is it worth staying overnight in Ban Rak Thai?
Yes, if you have time. Day-trippers leave by late afternoon, so overnight guests get the reservoir almost to themselves at sunset and in the misty early morning.
How do I get to Mae Hong Son?
By minivan or bus from Chiang Mai, usually via Pai, which takes most of a day, or by plane from Chiang Mai when flights operate. Many travellers drive the Mae Hong Son Loop by car or motorbike.
By Kylian Dev