Where to stay in Kanchanaburi: which area to choose?

Mae Nam Kwae Road runs parallel to the river north of the town centre and is Kanchanaburi's traveller hub. It is lined with guesthouses, some with riverside bungalows or small raft rooms, plus restaurants, bars, massage shops, scooter rental and tour agencies. The war cemetery, the Thailand-Burma Railway Centre and the train station are nearby, and the bridge is a short ride north. It is sociable and convenient, though some bars and karaoke boats can be noisy at night.

Getting around: Walk or cycle along the strip; songthaews, tuk-tuks and taxi apps cover the few kilometres to the bridge and bus station.

The area around the Bridge on the River Kwai, a couple of kilometres north of the backpacker strip, has a mix of mid-range hotels and riverside resorts, many with gardens, pools and views over the water. You can walk to the bridge early in the morning before the tour buses arrive, and catch the Death Railway train from the station next to it. Evenings are quieter than on River Kwai Road, with riverside restaurants rather than bars. It is a comfortable, scenic base for a couple of nights.

Getting around: The bridge is walkable; use tuk-tuks, taxi apps or a scooter for the town centre and museums.

Kanchanaburi is famous for its floating raft rooms, simple or stylish bungalows built on pontoons along the River Kwai Noi and River Kwai Yai. A few are close to town, but the most scenic sit upstream, often reachable only by boat, with jungle-covered cliffs around them. Many include meals and activities such as kayaking or floating down the river in a life jacket. Standards vary widely, from rustic to quite luxurious, and some have no air-con or limited electricity, so read recent reviews carefully.

Getting around: Most raft resorts arrange boat or road transfers; without your own car, plan them before you arrive.

Upstream from the town, the national parks around Erawan and Sai Yok have some of Thailand's most beautiful waterfalls, including Erawan's turquoise tiered pools around 65 km from town. Note that Erawan and Sai Yok lie on different roads, in separate river valleys. The Sai Yok area, around 100 km north-west along the Kwai Noi, with the Hellfire Pass memorial on the way (about 80 km from town), is dotted with resorts, riverside bungalows and raft houses. Staying here means you can visit the waterfalls early, before the crowds. There is almost no nightlife and few independent restaurants, so it works best for two or three nights of nature.

Getting around: A rented car or scooter gives the most freedom; local buses run from town to Erawan and along Route 323 towards Sai Yok, but services are infrequent.