Where to stay in Koh Chang: which beach to choose?

White Sand Beach, about 15–20 minutes from the car ferry pier at Ao Sapparot, is the island's most developed stretch. The beach is long and sandy, lined with resorts, beach bars and restaurants, and the road behind it has 7-Elevens, ATMs, pharmacies, massage shops and tour agencies. Evenings are sociable, with fire shows and live music at some beach bars. Parts of the beach narrow at high tide, and the main road behind it is busy. It is convenient rather than peaceful, and a practical base if you do not want to rent a scooter.

Getting around: Shared songthaews (pick-up taxis) run along the west coast road during the day; flag one down and agree the fare. Scooters are widely available, but the hills north of White Sand Beach are steep.

Klong Prao lies in the centre of the west coast, where a river and lagoon meet a long, wide beach. It has a good spread of mid-range and upscale resorts, many with gardens and pools, and it is close to Klong Plu waterfall, one of the island's most visited. The atmosphere is calm, with a few restaurants and bars along the road but no real nightlife. Being central, it makes day trips north to White Sand Beach and south to Lonely Beach or Bang Bao easy.

Getting around: Songthaews pass along the main road; some resorts are set back from it, so check walking distances. A scooter is useful here for exploring.

Kai Bae, just south of Klong Prao, is a smaller bay with views of offshore islets, and its water is often shallow and calm, which suits children and kayaking. There is a small cluster of restaurants, shops and massage places along the road, plus a mix of mid-range resorts and some budget bungalows. The beach can become thin at high tide and rocky in places. It is a comfortable middle ground between the livelier north and the backpacker scene of Lonely Beach.

Getting around: The steep hill road between Kai Bae and Lonely Beach needs care on a scooter; songthaews run this stretch during the day.

Despite its name, Lonely Beach is Koh Chang's most sociable spot. The village behind the beach is packed with cheap guesthouses, hostels, bars and street food, and some bars stay open late with DJs and parties, especially in high season. The beach itself is attractive, but it can have strong waves and currents, particularly during the rainy season, so check conditions before swimming. Quieter bungalows sit on the hillsides and rocks around the bay.

Getting around: About 40 minutes from the ferry pier by songthaew. The hilly roads either side of Lonely Beach are among the island's trickiest for scooters.

Bang Bao, in the south-west, is a former fishing village built on a long pier of stilts, now lined with seafood restaurants, shops and some guesthouses. Many snorkelling and diving boats leave from here, and quieter beaches such as Khlong Kloi are nearby. Salak Phet, on the south-east side of the island, is a more traditional fishing community with stilt homestays and mangroves. Neither is a swimming-beach base, but both suit travellers looking for character and seafood rather than beach bars.

Getting around: Transport is limited in the south, particularly around Salak Phet; a scooter or pre-arranged taxi is the most practical option.