Where to stay in Koh Phangan: which area to choose?

Haad Rin sits on the south-east peninsula, about 20 minutes by road from Thong Sala pier, and has two beaches: Sunrise (Haad Rin Nok), where the Full Moon Party happens, and the quieter Sunset beach (Haad Rin Nai) a few minutes' walk across the neck. Outside party nights it is a compact, slightly scruffy village of hostels, bars, 7-Elevens and tattoo shops. Around the full moon, accommodation fills weeks ahead and many places impose minimum stays. Leelawadee and Seekantang bays nearby offer calmer options within reach of the party.

Getting around: Shared taxi trucks run to Thong Sala; the road over the hill is steep and winding, so avoid riding a scooter here if you are inexperienced or have been drinking.

Thong Sala is the main town and ferry pier on the west coast, with banks, supermarkets, scooter rentals, clinics and the popular weekend walking street and food market. The beach itself is shallow with tidal flats, so it is not where you come to swim. Its value is location: most of the island is within 20–40 minutes, and nearby Ban Tai and Nai Wok offer quieter bungalows a short ride away.

Getting around: Taxi trucks and ride-hailing apps are easiest to find here; renting a scooter is common but only sensible if you are an experienced rider with a licence.

Srithanu is a village on the west coast, around 15 minutes north of Thong Sala, known for its yoga schools, vegan cafés and long-term community. Sunsets are good, but the beaches are rocky and very shallow at low tide; the nearby Zen beach and Haad Yao are better for swimming. It suits people who come for courses, retreats or a quiet month rather than a classic beach holiday.

Getting around: Taxis to Thong Sala take about 15 minutes; many long-stay visitors rent a scooter, which is practical here but still carries real accident risk.

These two north-west bays, about 20–25 minutes from Thong Sala, are the best compromise on the island: proper sandy beaches with deeper water, sunsets over the sea and a good range of mid-range bungalows. Haad Salad is the smaller and quieter of the two and has decent snorkelling at the reef edges. Haad Yao has a few more restaurants and bars without being noisy. They are well sheltered during the north-east monsoon (roughly November to December).

Getting around: Taxis run to Thong Sala and Srithanu; the roads are paved but hilly, and you can walk between some bays over the headland.

Thong Nai Pan Noi and Thong Nai Pan Yai are two golden bays on the north-east coast, about 35–45 minutes from Thong Sala on a now paved but steep road. Thong Nai Pan Noi has most of the upmarket resorts and a small village with restaurants; Yai is broader and a little cheaper. The water is calm and clear in the dry months, but the east coast takes the brunt of the north-east monsoon in November and December.

Getting around: Most people use resort transfers or taxis; the road is steep, so this is not a place for beginner scooter riders.

Bottle Beach is a small north-coast bay with a handful of simple bungalow resorts and no road access worth using. Most visitors arrive by longtail from Chaloklum (roughly 15–20 minutes) or hike in through the jungle. It is ideal for a few days of doing nothing, but meals are limited to what the resorts serve and boats can stop in rough weather.

Getting around: Longtails from Chaloklum or a hiking trail; there is no convenient road, so plan cash and supplies in advance.